| The Old Silk Store | |
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Mouressi 370 12 Pelion |
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The Old Silk Store is a delightful neoclassical mansion that was once used for the cultivation of silk worms. British owner Jill Sleeman turned it into a charming bed and breakfast with only five bedrooms. Creaky plank floors are painted in soft grey hues and covered with pretty rugs; high ceilings, tall windows and pastel-coloured walls give everything a fresh and airy feel. Bedrooms are simple but charmingly furnished with iron-farmed twin beds and old-fashioned pieces. There is also a small garden house with an open-plan studio including a fully equipped kitchen – ideal for longer stays. Jill always takes her time to get to know her guests and offers a very personal service. She serves a daily-varied, and absolutely delicious, breakfast in the gorgeously flowered garden. Ask her for suggestions to help you discover Pelion, or sign up for the guided walks she organises, assisted by her donkey, during spring and autumn.
What makes it special to me:
The simple charm and homely atmosphere. The excellent breakfast. And of course, hostess Jill!
But what you should keep in mind:
The bathrooms are a little old-fashioned (but clean and adequate).
| Owner | Jill Sleeman |
| Address | Mouressi |
| 370 12 Pelion | |
| Opening period: | From April until mid-October (rest of the year upon request)
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| Children: | Welcome (but not suitable for very young children during the winter season) |
| Dogs: | Not allowed |
| Credit cards: | Not accepted |
| Accommodation | 4 double/twin rooms for 2 persons 1 cottage for up to 3 persons with a kitchenette (open plan) | ||||||
| Prices: |
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| Reservation policy: | A deposit of 10% of the total price of the stay is required at the time of booking. The outstanding balance is to be paid directly to the hotel upon checkout. | ||||||
| Cancellation policy: | The 10% deposit paid online at the time of booking is non-refundable. The hotel will charge a further fee if the booking is cancelled less than three weeks prior to your arrival date. This fee is calculated as follows: 40% of the total price of the stay is charged if a cancellation is made between 21 and 14 days prior to the arrival date. 60% of the total price of the stay is charged if a cancellation is made between 14 and 7 days prior to the arrival date. 90% of the total price of the stay is charged if a cancellation is made less than 7 days prior to the arrival date, or in the case of a no-show or an early departure. Jacoline's Small Hotels in Greece reserves the right to debit your credit card on behalf of the hotel in accordance with the above cancellation. policies.  | ||||||
| Room facilities | En-suite bathroom with bath or shower; one of the rooms has its bathroom just across the corridor |
| Other facilities | Garden and terraces |
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Breakfast, usually served outside on the flowered terrace or in the shade of the apple orchard (from 8h00 to 10h00), is delicious. You get home baked bread, homemade jams, fruit juices (Jill makes them from her own fruits), and daily varied dishes such as yoghurt with fruits, scrambled eggs or baked pears. For your other meals you will find an array of places to eat, some in Mouresi at walking distance, others a little further, near the sea or in Tsangarada. |
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The Old Silk Store is in the village of Mouressi, where it sits on a mountainside just a few minutes’ drive from the beach. (You can do it on foot if you are not afraid of the climb back up.) It’s a great location if you’re interested in a combination of sea and mountains. |
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From Volos, there are two ways to drive to Mouressi. They are roughly the same in distance, and both are beautiful drives, so I recommend you go one way on your way over, and the other when you leave. The first way is to drive through the centre of Volos with the sea on your right hand and then follow the coastal road from Volos in the direction of Agria. Drive along the coastal road for about 20 km and continue following signs for Neohori, Tsangarada and Mouressi. (Alternatively, if you come this way, you take a left in Ano Lehonia and follow signs for Agios Georgios. You will pass through some of Pelion’s most beautiful villages: Agios Georgios, Pinakates, Vyzitsa and Milies, until you catch up again with the main road towards Tsangarada.) As you approach Mouressi, you turn right in the direction of the sea towards Damouchari and Agios Ioannis. You will see the Old Silk Store on your left a bit further down, just before the road makes a sharp turn to the right. The other way to go from Volos is to follow signs for Portaria and Hania from Volos. There’s a new road that connects Hania, via the ski centre of Agriolefkes, directly with the village of Kissos. (The road used to stop at the parking of the ski centre – now you keep on driving from there.) Following signs for Mouressi and Tsangarada. After you pass through the upper part of Mouressi you turn left in the direction of the sea towards Damouchari and Agios Ioannis and you will see the Old Silk Store on your left. |
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Pelion is a destination for any season. Verdant and mountainous, and blessed with a beautiful coastline, the peninsula is wonderful for touring around and exploring, no matter what time of the year it is. It is great in the winter, when the mountains are covered in a thick and powdery layer of snow. It is great in spring, when the green is greener, the flowers are more fragrant and birds sing louder than anywhere else in Greece (or at least, so it seems…). It is great in the summer, when the mountains offer relief from the heat to those who don’t want to spend all their time on the many beautiful beaches. And it is great in the autumn, when the colours of the forested mountain slopes are the most intense, while the apple, walnut and chestnut trees shed their fruits.
Pelion is particularly famous for its perfectly preserved villages, marked by their tall mansions, the so-called arhondika, constructed during the commercial boom of the 18th and 19th centuries. These are typically three-stories high, their first two floors built out of stone, originally used as storage space and winter rooms, and a third floor for the summer, a larger construction with many large windows on three sides. Many have been converted into guesthouses, varying from plain and simple to stylish and luxurious.
You could drive around most of Pelion in one day, but if you have the chance you should take more time and split your stay between the west side, the east side and the mountains in the north, and explore as many villages as possible. You will enjoy strolling through cobbled lanes past old stone mansions, tiny churches and numerous water fountains, buying local products in tiny shops, and tasting traditional meals on village squares.
Starting with the north, you should go and see Makrinitsa and Portaria, two villages situated at an altitude of about 600 m, halfway between Volos and the ski centre of Mount Pelion. Easy to reach, blessed with a ravishing setting and magnificent architecture, and offering many different places to stay, they tend to attract a fair amount of visitors. Makrinitsa has sweeping views of Volos and the Pagasitikos Gulf. The main square is a great spot to stop for a meal.
About 12 km after Portaria is the village of Hania (another cute one) and a bit further on is the Agriolefkes ski resort. It is small (five lifts), but it is known for the good snow quality, and it is quite something to ski with a sea view! It also has a particularly attractive trail for cross-country skiing.
The eastern (Aegean) side of Pelion features the best beaches and beautiful scenery. Zagora in the north is the largest village; Horefto, set along a long sandy beach, is nice if you are interested in pure beach holidays; a bit further south Mouresi is quiet and charming; Damouchari, a tiny fishing port, is a good choice to stop for lunch.
Further south, you reach Tsangarada, a group of communities set amidst greenery and overlooking the sea. One of those, Agia Paraskevi is known for its magnificent 1000-year-old plane tree (with a perimeter of about 17 m!). Reputedly, it is the oldest and largest in Greece. The communities are linked by cobbled paths – so bring your walking shoes!
The main road continues down for another 15 km or so, until it bends towards the west taking you to the other side of the peninsula. You could leave the main road and drive further south to Argalasti and Lafkos. The area is not as impressive and mountainous as northern Pelion, but it is green and quiet and there are nice beaches and small seaside communities to explore. Otherwise, turn off the main road towards Milies, the first (or last) in a string of villages built along the south western slopes of Mount Pelion, overlooking the Pagasitikos Gulf. They are among the most authentic and picturesque villages of Pelion, and popular among Athens weekenders, especially during the autumn and the winter.
In Milies, you can visit the craft museum and the library, though most people come here to have lunch in the taverna at the old railway station. During the summer season, on Saturday and Sunday, you can take a ride on the old train on the narrow gauge railway line (it takes you past breathtaking scenery); if you come another time, go for a walk along the tracks. The road continues towards Vyzitsa, Pinikates and Agios Georgios, one even prettier than the other. Vyzitsa offers most choice in terms of accommodation and places to eat or drink, while the other two are perhaps a tad quieter on weekends. Go and see them all. |
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Read here what others said about the Old Silk Store
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After a few days of searching we found the famous lost city of Milopotamos…- well that is what it felt like anyway. I think we followed the wrong sign. What an incredibly beautiful part of the world, full of all kinds of treasures to be discovered. But within this jewel of the Greek coast how wonderful to discover The Old Silk Store with its graceful serenity and gracious host Jill. We go back to England filled with memories and touched with the spirit of East Pelion. We will remember the gentle horse and the “working cat” (well has anyone ever seen her do anything except sleep) we remember the faces of the local villagers and think how good and right it is that there are more of them than there are of the visitors. Thank you Jill - you have got it right. P. P.London, UK September 2007 |
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