| Ta Chelidonakia (Little Swallows) | |
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Pinakates 370 10 Pelion |
find it on the map |
The owners of this gorgeous mansion dating from 1847 are a Flemish couple. They’d bought it when it was close to collapse, but after a restoration that lasted almost five years, they managed to turn it into a beautiful guesthouse. The building is full of old charm, with plank floors, fine woodwork, cosy fireplaces, elaborate timbered ceilings and low doors (less charming if you’re tall and don’t pay attention). Everything looks authentic – no attempts were made to add some sort of a signature style – but the furniture, mostly antiques shipped in from Belgium and Normandy, does add a slightly quirky touch. Nice detail: in every room, bathrooms included, you will find a picture of how that space was before the restoration. It gives you an idea not only of the history of the mansion, but also of the enormity of the work done. The rooms I like best are on the first floor: Zeus for its beautiful views, and Aphrodite and Hestia which, with fireplaces, are particularly cosy. There are two more rooms in a small stone house adjacent to the mansion, plus a self-catering studio at a few minutes’ walk. The bedrooms are not huge, but there is plenty of space to hang out in the traditional ‘summer’ sitting room on the mansion’s top floor. There’s also a cosy sitting/breakfast room in the paraspito (outbuilding) where you can warm yourself by the fire when it’s cold out. And when the weather is hot, you have a small pool to cool off in.
What makes it special to me:
The beauty of the building. My special moments were when I was taken to my room – it was a unseasonably cold day – and saw the fireplace was already lit, and also when I asked for a cup of tea, and found a table set with porcelain cups and place with cakes, again, next to a roaring fireplace.
But what you should keep in mind:
Most bathroom are on the small side, and (a bit childish of me) I missed the ‘spoil me rotten’ feeling that nice toiletries always give me. (I do realize the soap dispensers are much more environmental friendly…) Also keep in mind that the views from some of the rooms are limited. And that there are some steps to be taken to get to the guesthouse. If you have trouble walking, this will be an issue.
| Owner | Wies en Ward Renders-Liekens |
| Address | Pinakates |
| 370 10 Pelion | |
| Opening period: | All year |
| Children: | Welcome |
| Dogs: | Not allowed |
| Credit cards: | Not accepted |
| Accommodation | 1 room with two single beds with fireplace 4 doubles 1 double with fireplace (extra bed for a young child (not a cot!)) 1 room for up to 3 persons 1 room for up to 3 persons with fireplace 1 suite for 2 persons with fireplace (this is a large room in the small garden house) 1 studio for up to 3 persons with a kitchenette | |||||||||||||||
| Prices: |
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| Reservation policy: | A deposit of 10% of the total price of the stay is required at the time of booking. The hotel may ask for an additional deposit by bank transfer. The outstanding balance is to be paid directly to the hotel upon checkout. | |||||||||||||||
| Cancellation policy: | The 10% deposit paid online at the time of booking is non-refundable. The hotel may charge a further fee if the booking is cancelled less than two weeks prior to your arrival date. Please inquire upon booking. Jacoline's Small Hotels in Greece reserves the right to debit your credit card on behalf of the hotel in accordance with the above cancellation policies.  | |||||||||||||||
| Room facilities | En-suite bathroom (shower, except in one of the rooms that has a large bath)
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| Other facilities | Sitting room |
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Breakfast is served in the paraspito or out on the terrace. You can help yourself from a table with a combination of local produce and Flemish specialties. I had some slices of delicious home baked dark walnut bread, mini chocolate croissants, cake, fresh juice and the yoghurt with hot cherry preserve which was to die for. For lunch and dinner you can just walk to one of the three taverna's in the village which offer simple fare. During the summer, you can order snacks and light meals by the pool.
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Pinakates is a charming village built on the western slopes of the Pelion peninsula. It consists of beautiful old stone mansions, a church, a village square, three tavernas and one small shop. Ta Chelidonakia lies a little below the road, and is very quiet. It has wonderful views over the mountains and the Pagasitikos Gulf.
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 find it on the map
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Follow the coastal road from Volos in the direction of Avria. Take a left in Ano Lehonia and follow signs for Agios Georgios. After Agios Georgios, continue to follow to road to Pinakates. You will see the guesthouse on your right, right after the church and village square. It is easy to park in the street, but then you need to walk down some steps. |
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Pelion is a destination for any season. Verdant and mountainous, and blessed with a beautiful coastline, the peninsula is wonderful for touring around and exploring, no matter what time of the year it is. It is great in the winter, when the mountains are covered in a thick and powdery layer of snow. It is great in spring, when the green is greener, the flowers are more fragrant and birds sing louder than anywhere else in Greece (or at least, so it seems…). It is great in the summer, when the mountains offer relief from the heat to those who don’t want to spend all their time on the many beautiful beaches. And it is great in the autumn, when the colours of the forested mountain slopes are the most intense, while the apple, walnut and chestnut trees shed their fruits.
Pelion is particularly famous for its perfectly preserved villages, marked by their tall mansions, the so-called arhondika, constructed during the commercial boom of the 18th and 19th centuries. These are typically three-stories high, their first two floors built out of stone, originally used as storage space and winter rooms, and a third floor for the summer, a larger construction with many large windows on three sides. Many have been converted into guesthouses, varying from plain and simple to stylish and luxurious.
You could drive around most of Pelion in one day, but if you have the chance you should take more time and split your stay between the west side, the east side and the mountains in the north, and explore as many villages as possible. You will enjoy strolling through cobbled lanes past old stone mansions, tiny churches and numerous water fountains, buying local products in tiny shops, and tasting traditional meals on village squares.
Starting with the north, you should go and see Makrinitsa and Portaria, two villages situated at an altitude of about 600 m, halfway between Volos and the ski centre of Mount Pelion. Easy to reach, blessed with a ravishing setting and magnificent architecture, and offering many different places to stay, they tend to attract a fair amount of visitors. Makrinitsa has sweeping views of Volos and the Pagasitikos Gulf. The main square is a great spot to stop for a meal.
About 12 km after Portaria is the village of Hania (another cute one) and a bit further on is the Agriolefkes ski resort. It is small (five lifts), but it is known for the good snow quality, and it is quite something to ski with a sea view! It also has a particularly attractive trail for cross-country skiing.
The eastern (Aegean) side of Pelion features the best beaches and beautiful scenery. Zagora in the north is the largest village; Horefto, set along a long sandy beach, is nice if you are interested in pure beach holidays; a bit further south Mouresi is quiet and charming; Damouchari, a tiny fishing port, is a good choice to stop for lunch.
Further south, you reach Tsangarada, a group of communities set amidst greenery and overlooking the sea. One of those, Agia Paraskevi is known for its magnificent 1000-year-old plane tree (with a perimeter of about 17 m!). Reputedly, it is the oldest and largest in Greece. The communities are linked by cobbled paths – so bring your walking shoes!
The main road continues down for another 15 km or so, until it bends towards the west taking you to the other side of the peninsula. You could leave the main road and drive further south to Argalasti and Lafkos. The area is not as impressive and mountainous as northern Pelion, but it is green and quiet and there are nice beaches and small seaside communities to explore. Otherwise, turn off the main road towards Milies, the first (or last) in a string of villages built along the south western slopes of Mount Pelion, overlooking the Pagasitikos Gulf. They are among the most authentic and picturesque villages of Pelion, and popular among Athens weekenders, especially during the autumn and the winter.
In Milies, you can visit the craft museum and the library, though most people come here to have lunch in the taverna at the old railway station. During the summer season, on Saturday and Sunday, you can take a ride on the old train on the narrow gauge railway line (it takes you past breathtaking scenery); if you come another time, go for a walk along the tracks. The road continues towards Vyzitsa, Pinikates and Agios Georgios, one even prettier than the other. Vyzitsa offers most choice in terms of accommodation and places to eat or drink, while the other two are perhaps a tad quieter on weekends. Go and see them all. |
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