Mavromichalai
Limeni
Lakonia
230 62 Mani
find it on the map
 

I have stayed in almost every hotel I have written about. In the few cases where I wasn’t able to stay overnight, I did spend at least several hours at the hotel, to get the feeling and see it ‘in action’. Here is one exception. When I visited Hotel Mavromichalai, a 250-year-old tower house that was once the home of Petrobeis Mavromichalis, Mani’s most famous warlord, it had just closed for a few days. Fortunately, there was someone in the village to let me in and show me around. What I saw was something so exceptional that I decided not to wait until my next opportunity to travel to Mani, and already present it here. I found gorgeous interiors – a small sitting room fitted out with antiques, a cosy and slightly funky café/breakfast room, and six warm and stylish bedrooms, all with a view over the sea and the bay of Limeni. Clearly, the architect owner has spared no effort in the restoration and interior decoration. It has perfectionism and care for detail written all over it. I could easily imagine myself spending a few days here, cocooning in one of the cosy bedrooms, lazing away on the terrace, strolling over to one of the village tavernas and snorkelling in the cristal clear waters. Soon… (I hope)


What makes it special to me:

Apart from the beautiful interiors, the location is also amazing. The house stands like a little fortress on the rocks right above the sea, and the views from the rooms and the terrace are wonderful.


But what you should keep in mind:

Bathrooms are smallish, but they are modern and well-equipped. And of course, as I did not see the hotel in operation, I can't tell what the service is like.

 

OwnerGiorgos and Dimitris Parpairis
Address Limeni
Lakonia
230 62 Mani
Tel. 27330-52400
Fax 27330-53143
E-mailinfo@mavromichalai.gr
Website http://www.mavromichalai.gr
Opening period:

Normally all year

Children:For safety reasons (due to the location), young children are not allowed.
Dogs:Not allowed
Credit cards: AMERICAN EXPRESS, VISA, MASTERCARD
Accommodation4 double rooms
2 double rooms (third bed possible)
Prices:

Double room €150 - €300 per night.

Room facilities

En-suite bathrooms (with shower)
Air conditioning
Mini-bar
Telephone
Television
DVD player (in two of the rooms)
Hairdryer
Safe

Other facilities

Sitting room
Bar
Internet access
Terrace

 

The hotel only serves breakfast (from 8h00 to 10h30), but there are three traditional fish tavernas very close by. For a more varied choice of food you can drive to Aeropoli (just over 5 minutes) which has a good selection of restaurants.

The hotel is situated in one of the most beautiful bays of Mani, in a tiny seaside village. The building stands on the rocks, right above the water. There are places where you can access the sea for a swim very close to the hotel, and there's a beach just a couple of kilometres away.

From Korinthos, follow signs for Tripoli (all motorway up to this point), and from there go on towards Sparta, Gythio, Aeropoli and then Limeni. The hotel is hard to miss - once you get to Limeni you follow the water and you will see it on your left.

Mani is a rugged ‘middle finger’ in the southern Peloponnese. Its centuries-old stone towers uniquely mark the harsh landscape and remind one and all that this was the only part of mainland Greece that until the 18th century resisted Ottoman rule. Maniates, men and women alike, have always been known for their stubborn character and fiercely independent spirit. Some hair-raising stories exist not only about their ferocious battles against the Ottoman rulers, but also about bloody family feuds.

 

A visit to the most southern part the region, the inner Mani, is always a somewhat mystical experience which, fortunately, due to its remoteness, you are not likely to have to share with busloads of fellow travellers. Just like its people, the landscape of this southernmost part of the Greek mainland comes across as stark and forbidding, but the spectacular coastlines and barren mountain ranges, dotted with small clusters of fort-like tower-houses, never fail to captivate those passing through.

 

The inner Mani is an area to simply take in, rather than to run around touring site to site. Wandering around its many stone tower villages is a great experience (Vathia is a must). On the west coast, close to the main (village-sized) town, Aeropoli, the caves of Pirgos Dirou are among the best known in Greece and a definite must-see. Aeropoli is a charming place, fairly quiet during the day, and more lively at night. Go for a swim in the beautiful Limeni bay to its north, and have a meal by the water. Further south on the west coast is Gerolimenas, a tiny and charming port, not striking in terms of architecture (except for hotel Kyrimai) but a magical spot nevertheless. All the way south, there are some nice coves and beaches.

 

On the east coast you should make a stop at the little seaside town of Gythio, which has a good choice of fish restaurants by the water. The drive down the coastal road is beautiful, and you will come across several good beaches, some with sand, others with pebbles. Keep in mind though that this intriguing peninsula is not the place for beach bums, but for those who like to walk, explore and discover in peace and quiet. Spring is the best time of the year for this, and is indeed more of a ‘high season’ than the summer.

 

In contrast to the untamed wild beauty of the Inner Mani, the Outer Mani that lies to its north is much more friendly and lush in appearance. Set against the backdrop of the Taigetos mountain range, the area is one of the most scenic parts of Greece. The landscape is marked by hills covered with olive groves and punctuated by cypresses, lovely tower house villages, wild oleanders lining the winding road south, tiny Byzantine churches, and a beautiful coastline with emerald green waters. It has remained blissfully unspoilt and is still relatively undiscovered – the tourism that makes it to this out-of-the-way corner of Greece is generally of the ‘good kind’: people looking for natural beauty, tranquillity and a few sights rather than beach entertainment and nightlife. The opportunities for walking and hiking are numerous, and routes are clearly indicated by different coloured marks. They vary from easy half- to one-hour walks in the foothills of the Taigetos Mountains, to more serious hikes, notably the six-hour trek through the Viros Gorge. Kardamyli is the obvious base from where to explore the area: it is a pretty and peaceful village by the sea, with a good pebble beach.