Vetera
Kastrinoyannaki Street 74
Rethymno (Old Town)
74 100 Crete
find it on the map
 

In a town where ‘luxury suites’ hotels (shiny, replica antiques, Jacuzzi baths, illuminated fountains, you get the picture) abound, Vetera is like a breeze of fresh air. This tiny hotel has only four rooms, two on the first floor, two on the second, while the ground floor is used as reception/breakfast/sitting room.  The building dates from the 15th century, and, like many historical buildings in Rethymno, the architecture is typically Venetian, with also some distinct Turkish elements. It has been lovingly restored by owner and art conservationist Niki Paschali. She kept as many of the house’s original features intact as possible and in terms of modernisation, she only did what was absolutely necessary, so the house hasn’t lost any of its charm and character. She just added some: carefully selected antique and handmade country-style furniture, and many thoughtful decorative touches, give everything a romantic, almost French provincial touch. Maybe ‘adorable’ is a strange word to use for the description of a hotel, but this one certainly fits the bill. 

 

What makes it special to me:

I love tiny hotels; I love historical buildings; I love antique and country style furniture; and I love it when I see that something is created with immense love and care. So it is very simple: this is my kind of place.


But what you should keep in mind:

The character of the building has not been compromised to provide perfect comfort, and each room has its own particularities. For instance, one room, which in the old days used to be the kitchen, has no view: it only has a roof window (which does open). The shower in my room was tiny. 

 

OwnerNiki Paschali
Address Kastrinoyannaki Street 74
Rethymno (Old Town)
74 100 Crete
Tel. 28310-23844
Fax 28310-23843
E-mailvetera@otenet.gr
Website http://www.vetera.gr/
Opening period:

All year

Children:Welcome, but the hotel is not really suitable for very young children.
Dogs:Not allowed
Credit cards: VISA, MASTERCARD
Accommodation2 doubles (double bed are 1.30 m wide)
2 suites for up to 3 persons (2 twin beds and 1 single bed)
Prices:

 

Accommodation type

1 Oct - 14 Mar

15 Mar - 20 Jul
21 Jul - 30 Sep
Double room 95 110 130
Suite for up to 3 pers. 120 140 150
Breakfast 10 10 10

  • Prices in Euro per unit per night (taxes included).
  • 10% reduction for longer stays.
  • Baby cot: 12 Euro per night.
  • Reductions available for early bookings and for stays of 3 nights or more.
  • The above prices are may be subject to change. Prices will be confirmed when you make a reservation enquiry.

 

Room facilities

En-suite bathroom (with shower)

Telephone

Television with DVD player
CD player
Internet access
Kitchenette (with microwave)
Air conditioning
Safe
 
Hairdryer
Iron

Other facilities
Breakfast/sitting room
Small library
Laptop

 

A rich, homemade breakfast is served from 8h00 to 10h00 (later upon request). No other meals are served at the hotel, but there are lots of restaurants at walking distance. Some people will tell you that Avli (known for its romantic ambience and creative Greek and Mediterranean cuisine) is the best in town; others will tell you to go to Maistros, a bar-restaurant with a great setting by the sea, just outside the centre of Rethmno, serving typical Greek mezedes, Mediterranean dishes and excellent fish. Of course the owners of Vetera will happily give you more recommendations. 

Hotel Vetera is in the Old Town or Rethymno. It is opposite to a church and a small square, and there is little traffic. Restaurants, shops, the fortress, the sea and even the beach are all easy to reach on foot. 

Rethymno is about halfway between Iraklion and Hania, so you can fly or take a ferry to either of these two towns, and then it is a roughly one-hour drive to get to Rethymno. Once you get to Rethymno, follow signs for the Old Town, and leave your car at the parking next to the municipal park (a small parking fee applies). It is possible to bring your car closer the hotel, but unless you have a lot of luggage, it is easier to continue on foot (less than 5 minutes). On the north side of the parking, across the main street, you will see a big church. Walk past this church to Dimakopoulou Street, and turn right. Take a left after 80 m. into (the narrow) Kapsali street. You will see a white church at the end of this street. Continue straight into Kastrinoyannaki Street, and you will see Vetera on your left (opposite to the church entrance).  

The island of Crete has everything to offer, and so does the province of Rethymno by itself: a historical town to explore, countryside where you can get a taste of traditional life, mountains great for outdoor activity and beautiful beaches. The only thing it doesn’t have is a major archaeological site, though there are some smaller ones. (And of course Knossos, one of the most impressive sites in Greece, is not far.)

 

The old town of Rethymno has an unbeatable charm. The 16th century fortress, the colourful historical quarter with its narrow winding lanes, Venetian and Turkish houses, churches and mosques, wall fountains and small shops, and the picturesque Venetian port make it worth at least a full day visit. Take your time to wander around, to visit the fortress, to have a meal in the port and to visit the archaeological museum.

 

The northern coast of the province has some long stretches of beach, but most of it is too built-up and developed to my taste and I wouldn’t recommend you stick around. There are a few spots that have kept their charm. The seaside village of Panormos, for instance, is quite exceptional. It was a flourishing trading port in the 19th century, but it hasn’t developed much since. It miraculously escaped the fate of so many other Cretan seaside villages that were taken over by tourism. There are a couple of biggish hotels on the outskirts of the village, but nevertheless the village itself has remained quiet and unspoilt, with a handful of grocery stores and craft shops, and a few small cafés and tavernas with tables out in the pedestrian streets. Next to the port there are two sandy beaches which are not bad at all.

 

Away from the coast, the landscape turns green and hilly, with peaceful villages scattered around. Don’t miss the ceramics village of Margarita where you can find interesting pottery. The village is also known for its excellent tavernas, each one serving its own speciality. Further south there are several mountains, including Crete’s highest, Mount Idi (or Psiloritis). In its foothills, the village of Spili is known for its 25 lion fountainheads. Other places of interest are the Sfendoni Caves, the Gorge of Kourtaliotiko as well as several monasteries.  

 

The southern coast if Rethymno has a wild and untamed beauty, and there are several magnificent beaches. The beauty of Preveli beach, at the mouth of a river gorge lined with palm trees, is hard to describe. However, when I went there an afternoon in August, I found it too crowded to fully enjoy it. If you’re in Crete during the high season, try to go very early in the morning, and later go on the visit the Preveli Monastery. Other well-known and beautiful beaches include Tripetra, Damnoni and Plakias, but with a good map, a decent car and some walking shoes you can find many more that are quieter.

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