All year

Cottage for 2 persons €75-105 per night (breakfast included)

En-suite bathroom (shower)
Wood-burning stove

Restaurant / sitting room with fireplace (and Wi-fi internet access)

Milia lies hidden in the forested mountains of western Crete. Here you are surrounded by nature, and nature only. The nearest shop is at 12 km. One of Greece’s most beautiful and spectacular beaches, Elafonissos, is about 30 km away.

There are several ways to get to Crete. There’s an international airport at Iraklion another airport at Hania, and ferries from Piraeus arrive at Hania, Rethymno, Iraklion and Agios Nikolas further east. If you stay at Milia, a ferry or plane to Hania is the best choice, as you will avoid the 130 km drive from Iraklion to Hania (for which you should count about two hours). Should you come from the island of Kythnos, you can also take a ferry to Kissamos, but keep in mind that the ferry is not a very comfortable one, and the connection is irregular. To get to Mila from Hania, you take the national road towards Kissamos. A few kilometres before you reach Kissamos, you take the turn-off for “Elafonissos – Hania Old Road”. Follow this road in the direction of Elafonissos (the villages you pass through are Kaloudiana, Voulgaro and Topolia). Some kilometres after you pass through the Topoliano Gorge, you turn right towards Vlatos, from where you follow signs for Milia. The last 2 km are on a dirt road, cut into the steep mountainside – you are not to do this drive if you’re not 100% sober!

Verdant hills, sleepy little villages, wonderful beaches, olive groves, wild mountains, deep gorges and also a historic town, this western province on the island of Crete has it all.

Start with the capital Hania. Skip the modern part and stick to the historical centre. Set within centuries-old fortifications and built amphitheatrically around its picturesque old harbour, its history dates back to the Minoan period. Throughout the centuries it has been under Roman, Arab, Byzantine, Venetian and Turkish rule. The old Venetian harbour is always full of life. The only lull is in that short interval between the ending of the last animated discussions on the terraces lining the waterfront, and the arrival of the first fishermen that come to take their brightly painted caiques out to the sea. The narrow, pedestrian backstreets are a tad quieter, but with little boutiques and art shops, cafés and small restaurants, they too are usually bustling with life. It is a place where you could easily spend two or three days wandering around the narrow alleyways and sitting by the sea. Your walks will take you past the old fortifications, Turkish hammams and minarets, churches and monasteries, and several museums worth a visit (the Archaeological Museum and the Naval Museum are particularly interesting).

Large parts of the coast west of the town are lined with beaches, most are good; several are downright amazing. On the northwest finger, take the 9km dirt road north, which will take you to Balos beach. White sand, shallow turquoise water, we’re talking lagoon. There is a very similar beach, Elafonisi, near the south-western tip of Crete. Both beaches are must-sees, but keep in mind that in the summer they get very very busy, especially Elafonisi where tourists arrive by the busload, literally. If you come in the high-season, just spend a few hours early or late in the day, and if you’re there in-between, try and ignore most of what is happening around you.

The countryside of the province (and rest of Crete!) is very beautiful. In fact, the northern coast is a bit too developed and touristy to my taste, but what always amazes me that all you need to do is drive a few kilometres inland, and you’re in a landscape dominated by hills and olive trees, with totally unspoilt, traditional villages scattered throughout. Further south, you’re in the mountains. The White Mountains in the south-eastern part of Hania have peaks reaching over 2400 m. The whole area is a paradise for hikers. There are several amazing gorges you can traverse; the Samarias Gorge is famous. It is the longest and also one of the most beautiful gorges in Europe. The walk through it takes around six hours, starting at an altitude of 1050 m and ending by the sea. Don’t go unprepared; it is best to go with a guide who will also organise the transfers.