All year (except for two weeks during the summer)

Double room or suite €88-180 per night (breakfast included)

En-suite bathroom (shower)
Telephone
Wireless Internet
Television
Mini-bar (suites only)
Air conditioning
Hairdryer
Fireplace in some of the rooms and suites

Sitting room with fireplace
Wireless Internet
Terraces
Outdoor swimming pool (heated)

The guesthouse is in a quiet spot at the top of Amfiklia. The village is just a short drive away from the ski centre of Parnassos, but has not been affected by it at all. It’s simply a traditional, quiet village without any after ski facilities to speak of. (The ski crowds go to trendy Arahova, on the other side of the mountain). But it has its charm, as well as a few okay places to eat, and the location is great for anyone interested in outdoor sports (just ask Kiriaki).

The fastest way from Athens to Amfiklia is to follow the National Road towards Lamia until Kastro (120 km from Athens). From Kastro you follow signs for Orhomenos (but don’t go into Orhomenos – stay on the main road), Heronia and Amfiklia. You will see signs for the guesthouse in the centre of Amfiklia. You can leave your car in the street at the back of the guesthouse, and take the steps down to the entrance.

Let’s start with Delphi. I find this the most magical archaeological finds in the country. In ancient times, the site of the oracle of Delphi was regarded as the centre of the world, the place where heaven and earth came together. It still feels that way. You don’t need to be a believer of any sorts to be moved by this place and to sense its magic. The scenery is magnificent and the excavations are awe-inspiring. You will find the remains of the temple of Apollon as well as several smaller ones, a theatre, a stoa, a stadium and a gymnasium. Part of the excavations lie above the road (opening hours and an entrance fee); those that are situated a little further down, below the road, are freely accessible, quieter (at least during my visits) but no less fascinating. The site and the museum are open daily with the exception of a few national holidays, but keep in mind that during the winter season, they close at 15h00.

The town of Delphi has no charm whatsoever; don’t stop here unless you want to buy souvenirs and have lunch together with busloads of tourists. Better drive on another half hour or so for a visit to Galaxidi, one of most picturesque ports on the Greek mainland. Gorgeous 19th century neoclassical houses line the waterfront; come here at lunchtime for a meal by the water. There’s a good choice of tavernas serving fresh fish and traditional Greek food.

Situated 12 km east of Delphi, Arahova is another great place to visit, and better even, to spend one or several nights. It is a picturesque little mountain town, where you can buy traditional handicrafts, taste local specialties and dance to Greek music, but where you will also find shops selling trendy ski wear, and where you can lounge with a café latte and a chocolate soufflé, and with something jazzy playing in the background. The town really comes to life during the snow season, when the cafés fill up with youngish types, showing off their hippest ski outfits.

Arahova is considered to be the place to stay for those who go skiing on Mount Parnassos, but if you are not in the mood for the ‘lively’ aspect of Arahova, you can also stay on the opposite side of the mountain, in the village of Amfiklia. It is a lot quieter and less hyped. The first guesthouses with charm started working a few years ago, but don’t except any après-ski entertainment in the village.

With 14 lifts and about 25 slopes, Parnassos is the largest ski resort in Greece. At just a two-hour drive from Athens, it attracts a fair amount of skiers during winter weekends, but as few Athenians will actually take days off work to go skiing (and there are no Greek school vacations between the New Year and Easter), on weekdays the slopes are practically empty.  

Most Greeks happily forget about the mountains of Parnassos as soon as the snow melts away, but it is also a beautiful destination for the summer. The national park of Parnassos is great for hiking or mountain biking, and there are lots more options for outdoor activities, including kayaking, rafting, canyoning and rock climbing.

A final tip for those who’d like to see more. Go and visit the Vagonetto – FokisMiningPark near the village of Gravia. Here you can get a guided tour in the old mining shafts. You get a pretty good impression what it must be like to work in the mines, and the experience is both entertaining and educational. Kids love it too.